Varanasi

We had less than 24 hours in the 2,000 year old, holy city of Varanasi and it was crammed full.  After checking in to a less than spectacular hotel we went to see the aarti ceremony on the Ganges.  We couldn't get the mini bus near to where we were going so we did part of the trip by cycle rickshaw and walked the last bit through the crowds.  I loved the cycle rickshaw which waited for us to return.  You can actually look at all the stalls without pressure and its even more exciting than crossing the street.  We worried a bit about the aarti ceremony which is performed every night to give thanks for the day because it is all in Hindi but the worries were for nothing.  The chanting, costumes and music along with the lights were just wonderful.  To avoid standing in the crowd and struggling to see, we rented a rowboat with driver and joined the hundreds of other boats to watch from offsure.  In the morning we left the hotel at 5:30 am to repeat the trip and see the sunrise over the Ganges before touring the markets, visiting the Golden Temple and stopping at the ruins of Sarnath where Buddha delivered his first sermon.  The temple was very interesting and while we (as non-Hindus) were only allowed to see the outside, there was more security than at the airport because there has been terrorist activity in the past.  The site has been a conflict area between Hindu and Moslem, one of the few we have seen.  I have been very struck by the religious tolerance in India.
I should mention that while our hotel was very unmemorable - the only one where my feet got dirty between washing them in the bathroom and walking to the bed - the restaurant was fantastic and served us one of our best meals!
On both of our boat rides, we went up and down the river to see the bathing ghats and went as far as the cremation areas.  In the evening we bought candles to light and release into the river.  It was all very moving and beautiful.  Varanasi was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.